JavaScript seems to be disabled in your browser. You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. Sherwin Williams Macropoxy is best used as a primer finish for marine applications, pulp and paper mills, refineries, power plants, chemical plants, offshore platforms, tank exteriors, nuclear power plants, and water treatment plants. White colour is acceptable for immersion use for salt water and fresh water. Suitable for application to concrete floors. Surface must be clean, dry, and in sound condition.

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Login to Your Account. Remember Me? Register Forgot password? What's New? Results 1 to 11 of Thread: SW Macropoxy - breaking the "rattle can barrier". Thread Tools Show Printable Version. SW Macropoxy - breaking the "rattle can barrier" The end question here is - has anyone used, and can provide a picture of results with Macropoxy And if so can you share application success tips?

I've spent many hours researching for economical and durable paints. The two at the top of my list, in order of economy are: 1. SW Macropoxy - semi-gloss unfortunately doesn't come in full gloss but it is a 3H hardness which is stellar , 2 part, not clear how it will spay.

For a machine point of multiple types this would be a very tenacious and durable paint from solvents etc. Unfortunately getting mfg's help other than "we sell this" isn't there. Please let me know if anyone has specific experience results with these, i'm particularly favoring the macropoxy as long it will flow out smoothly from a gun.

PM 90 Directly after adoption was completed After scraping with a utility blade - but before sanding the cabinet. What gun are you using? I would recommend a true airless. Yes it holds up very well. If you try to brush it, lap marks, and if you roll it, it leaves prounounced texture. You will most likely need two coats since it will run after it is thinned so much if you spray too heavy. It's my go-to industrial paint.

I haven't purchased the paint yet - I have a basic conventional gun but would like to buy an HVLP if that makes sense. Which is acceptable to me for a durable paint I can use on multiple machines. I have used a few good quality guns. I like the fan control on the Sata full size and minijet guns. The Sagola guns, and mini extremes are new to me and made in Italy. For breathing the cartridge filter masks are not going to do you any good. People use them but they are not informed about the dangers involved.

So they think they are saving money. It's where the local autobody painters go. I just painted a Webb mill with Pro-Cryl primer and Macropoxy Did it with a brush and roller. In fact the Purple Power was used before the sanding, and it took most of the old paint off. First thing I can tell you is that the primer sucks balls. It's like latex body paint. The day after I primed it, I went to pull off a bug that had got on the primer, and it was like pulling body paint off a drunk stripper.

I had to make scoring marks to stop the paint from peeling further. After waiting for two weeks for a S-W paint rep to come out, and being told over the phone that it peeled due to poor prep, the paint rep finally got here and said it's fine. Touch it up, wait a full week, then apply the So, I did just that. The Part B epoxy is another laughable topic in itself I feel sorry for you if you try and spray it, and I'm not sure how you would thin it.

The part B is about the consistency of molasses on New Year's Eve. And being epoxy, I would certainly hope you know to wear a GOOD respirator and full face mask and body suit before spraying it. Epoxy will kill you slowly if inhaled.

Since it has a 4 hour pot life, you have 3. The results are ok. Yes, it's hard, a bit too hard to me, but whatever. In the future, I'd use automotive Imron before I messed with this crap again If you want to pay for shipping, I'll sell you the primer and paint I have leftover. Color is a light machine grey. S-W calls it "Foggy Day". Here's before and after photos I used it to paint my saw a while back. It's some damn tough paint. I applied it to a freshly sandblasted surface.

I did not thin before application, but probably should have. It ate my paint brush, causing the bristles to stick together and give a really bad texture. It looks like I used a gravel rake but it's sure as hell not going anywhere. WJ and Cole Thx for the detailed experiences and also the before after photos. I'm getting the impression macropoxy will be challenging at best to get it to come out anything acceptable wrt a uniform and settled flat coating. I surmise it is best rolled on where a smooth texture isn't the goal.

It could possible turn out to be a decent paint but not for me - as I am a novice. Well that saves me a lot of wasted effort and going down the wrong path.

I'll look up the Imron but I suspect it is going to be pricey. I'll still continue after Option 2- as people have said good things about it. Why are you fixing up that mill? Have you an understanding of what it is? Stradbash liked this post. Interesting - I called SW tech support today for recommendations s for machine paint - and Macropoxy is what they are strongly pushing - he said it's the countries "workhorse industrial paint". I asked if it would spray evenly - "of course".

He said a few people have had issues as if he has read forums! But the vast majority have great results. How much do I thin? So,if I have bad results - surely they would complimentary correct the situation being the great company that they are.

Originally Posted by Garwood. Tags for this Thread durable , hardness , macropoxy , paint , shizuoka. Bookmarks Bookmarks Digg del. I agree to receive emails from Practical Machinist containing industry news and updates from Practical Machinist and its sponsors. You may unsubscribe at any time.


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